Shiraz Web Publications UK - Advice on Propagating Lilies

HomePage		Vegetatively propagating Lilies is so easy even the neighbour's cat did it, although I wished it had not. Lilies are beautiful whether planted in the borders or raised as specimens in large plant pots, and for many years I have planted Lilies in pots to place either side of our front door where their perfume and beautiful flowers could be best appreciated. A few years ago our neighbours acquired a kitten, which took a liking to our plant pots as an alfresco alternative to the litter tray. I arrived home one evening to find the little blighter had dug deep, and literally sliced up the lily bulbs in my pots, ejecting much of the contents of the pots onto the surrounding ground. At this point I was ready to petition for a cull of all cats in the neighbourhood, and simply returned all that had been deposited on the ground back into my beloved but now violated pots, purely to clear up the mess that had been made. As the weeks passed, the Muscari and Daffodils appeared from the greater depth of my two pots and I thought little about the lost Lilies. Then as the bountiful bunches of Muscari leaves began to droop over the side of my pots, the real wonder of Mother Nature was revealed. Young Lily plants growing like cress, some more thrusting and strong, and others that were obviously having a harder time of it all, but never-the-less, there they were, an abundance of young Lily plants begging to be potted on. Now if a Puddy-Tat can do it, I feel confident that you will have no trouble in matching or even exceeding what that black bundle of fur did.
Propagation
Techniques
Cuttings - Softwood
Cuttings - Hardwood
Cuttings - Root

Propagation of Bulbs
Propagation of Lilies
Division of Herbaceous Perennials
Division of Bulbous Plants
Growing Plants From Seed
Layering
Micro-Propagation



Equipment
The Essential Tool Kit You Will Need

Lily bulbs are essentially the same as Daffodil or Allium bulbs, in having a redesigned stem forming a base plate to which modified leaves are attached, thereby forming a storage organ.

The main difference is that unlike an Allium or Daffodil bulb where the modified leaves take the form of continuous layers enclosing the embryonic flower and leaves, Lily bulbs produce individual scales attached to the base plate, which curve upwards in an interlocking fashion. This arrangement happily favours gardeners who do not want to totally mutilate and destroy the source of their propagation material, for scales can be removed individually and only sufficient for one's needs taken, whereby the parent bulb can be replanted and grown on once again.

If my experience with the feline vandal has taught me anything; it is that sometimes we try too hard to protect and cosset the plants we are endeavouring to propagate. Thus I am compelled to recommend two ways of propagating Lilies from bulbs, the easy way and the more complex way that I was taught: -

The Easy Way

Select a Lily bulb that is healthy and free from signs of disease or insect damage;
Remove a few scales, sufficient for your needs;
Dip the base of the scales into powdered fungicide;
Insert the scales into moist but not wet, sterile compost, preferably in a plant pot;
Cover with a polythene bag to retain humidity;
Await the emergence of new Lily plants.

The Complicated Way

You will need: -

A Sharp Knife (preferably with a thin blade);
Horticultural Vermiculite;
A reasonably sized polythene bag;
Both Liquid and Powdered Fungicide;
Plus of course the plump Bulb you have chosen for your surgical weight reduction program.

Half fill your plastic bag with moistened Vermiculite;
Remove as many scales as you require dropping them into the fungicidal solution, and leave to soak for 5-10 minutes;
Remove the scales from the fungicidal solution, and leave to drain;
Dust the basal part of the scale with powdered fungicide;>
Place the scales in the plastic bag mixing with the Vermiculite, and seal the bag;
Place the polythene bag in the airing cupboard at around 68^oF (20^oC);
Regularly observe your bag of scales, check for signs of diseased scales, which should be removed, and monitor the progress of your developing bulblets;
The bulblets will grow in size and produce roots, whilst the scales that gave birth to them will wither and dry;
Remove the bulblets and pot on in a good potting compost.

Essentially the complicated method of propagating Lilies is the same as for bulbs like Daffodils and Alliums, however, due to the differing nature of Lily and Daffodil bulbs the propagation of Daffodil type bulbs is far more traumatic for the bulb and subject to failure through disease entering wounded tissues.

Leaf Axil Bulbils

Many Lilies like the Tiger Lily, Lilium. lancifolium, and Lilium. bulbiferum produce bulbils at the leaf axils. These bulbils can be removed near the end of the season and potted up, or planted straight into the garden where they are to flower. Experience has shown that bulbils can flower in their second year, although the size of the plant is nowhere near what it should be after around 4 years.

Lilies from Seed

Growing Lilies from seed is surprisingly easy., and only takes around 4 years to produce full sized flowering bulbs.

Most Lilies will produce seed if they are fertilised, and this seed should be planted during the Autumn whilst still fresh. Many gardening experts recommend that seed should be planted in pots and over-wintered in a cool place such as the greenhouse, coldframe, or sheltered site in the garden. However, I have never had any problems with planting seeds directly into the garden soil where I want them to grow.

The only problem with seed obtained from your own plants is that it can be variable, especially if you grow a number of different cultivars or species. The real joy of growing your own plants from seed is to find that one of your home raised seedlings produces a sensational plant that cannot be bought in the shops.